Flow Part One

I remember reading a piece by Terry Fitzgerald about how, when he was pushing the limits surfing, and things were not going well- falling off, body not doing what it should, he would force himself to catch a wave and simply go straight, down the line. No turns, simply finding the ‘spot’ and riding the wave as it is. I think his point was to go back to basics, to recognise what the essence of the wave is, and then start all over again.

I’m certainly not in his league and would class myself as a very average surfer, but I decided to look into this a little, and catch a few waves, straight. With no desire to turn, no attempts to spray water, just to try to find the ‘spot’.

Well, what a revelation! I learnt more about a wave; where it’s power lies, the signs that it will barrel, the indicators that you need to be high, or low, in a few days then I have in the last few years. From here the idea is to begin to use this knowledge to leave your mark, to express yourself on the wave. Start small, start simple and work from there. And when this happens, you do so from a position that shows a far greater understanding of what it is you are riding. 

You understand the flow.