Fresh

Surfed today. Third wave, dumped. Came up to find the glass on the nose of my board had cracked and was peeling off. End of surf.

Decided to keep the wetsuit on and go for a swim. Did some body surfing. Seemed like ages since the last time I did this,

and it felt fresh.

Went out later with my old board. Smaller and more twitchy than my current (now damaged) favourite.

It felt,

fresh.