Surf 1: A big day, holding up exceptionally well over the banks but also offering some severe poundings. Caught some wonderful waves and then got a number on my head. Sinuses clean!
Surf 2: Smallish day with a fun little left peak. One of those days where you can pick your waves and have a huge amount of fun.
Surf 3: Slightly smaller than the last surf. The right was working with some waist to chest high waves coming through. Shared the surf and a good chat with Geoff, a local long boarder.
Surf 4: New east swell with a huge amount of punch. Massive paddle out. Pretty much closeout sets with the medium sized waves holding up (sometimes). First wave was an absolute freight train. Was lucky enough to have a lull in swell to get out again. Second wave was a freight train in a hurry. Caught inside and was thrown around like a rag doll. Paddled in. Tried again and felt like I was on a duck diving conveyor belt, wave after wave closing out. Paddle in.
Lessons: A week in surfing can teach you much.
The beauty in something is in it's diversity. The frustration of the wait for the right conditions and new swell, is paradoxically, part of the joy of surfing. That is, as long as you are not waiting for perfection and, instead, see the good/joy/fun in each unique experience. Enjoy the small, fun days. The long waits between sets. The days that teach you that you're not as good as you thought you were. The days you seem on fire. The days that, on the surface, seem to be a waste of time. The days that are as close to perfection as you could imagine.
Oh, and it also reminds you that it is great to clean out the sinuses!
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