An Ode to Surfing Mates

The surf this morning was great. Beatings aplenty out there with big paddles out, but the wonderful waves to be had made up for it.

It was one of those days Frankie would love- big, grinding waves breaking over a pretty shallow bank, going both left and right. The set waves were very hit and miss, more often closing out. I imagined Frankie sitting out there waiting for the boomers to unload, and getting either an amazing barrel or completely worked. Either way, he would come up smiling and yelling.

There was a nice left to the north that was breaking over a little rip. I imagined Andrea wandering over there and working his way into barrel after barrel with his smooth style.

I took a massive beating as I pulled out (chickened out) of a set wave which then decided it liked the look of me and sent me over the falls. I imagined Frank making sure I was alright and then laughing his head off.

I imagined the banter, talk of early wake ups with the kids, work. Frank giving Andrea a hard time about his fear of sharks (he could be on to something Frankie!!), the hoots for a wave well ridden, and a beating well taken. Of chats about life.

It's great to surf great waves.

Even better to share it with your mates.