Sunday, September 30, 2012

I'm going


The surf has been pretty small on the south coast lately. After an amazing autumn and winter it seems that the nice southern swells are not eventuating.

There may be a bit of a pulse coming through in the morning.

I'm surfing.

Even if it's too small to catch a wave on a board.

I'll bodysurf.

Even if the ocean looks like a swimming pool.

I'm swimming.

I'm going...

Postscript: I went. The swell arrived. Small, consistent waves to be surfed. A beautiful morning surf!

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