Sunday, June 5, 2011

Surfing and Cobwebs


Sometimes you get trapped. No one traps you, In a sense you trap yourself; in other peoples issues, in the seeming importance of yourself and your work, in the mundane that has to be done, in tv shows that go nowhere, in waste.

Sometimes I get to the beach and the waves are average, it is slightly onshore, there are too many guys out. I sit in the car and contemplate whether to get wet, whether my time would be best spent getting out there.

I'm still trapped.

So now I don't even look. No seeing whether any decent waves are coming in. No counting the number of surfers out, or checking the wind direction. My wetsuit is on and I race down to the water. Whether it is all time epic, or onshore rubbish, surfing gets rid of the cobwebs. For a moment in time I escape all those things I decide to trap myself in.

And after the first smashing by a set wave, any cobwebs left are blown away.

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