Older

I remember when I was younger and right into surfing, it became a vehicle for a lot of my insecurities. This manifested itself in a few ways. I would get angry if I was having a 'bad' surf, I would rarely begin a conversation with another surfer (not sure why, perhaps I had a sense that, as they could take waves, they were the enemy!), and I would never explain any inadequacies to another surfer.
I am glad to have, to a large degree, gotten through this. I am the epitome of an 'average surfer', I have good days and very bad days. I do my best to enjoy both. I enjoy conversation out in the surf and in the carpark.

Today I surfed big Yallngyup. Got lost out in the surf with swell seeming to come from different directions. Had several big sets on my head and managed to catch a few screamers. Walked back to the car and was met by someone getting their wet suit on.

"How was it?" he asked.

Old self reply:
"Not bad."

New self reply:
"There are some nice ones coming through, but I also got a fair few on my head. Seem to get lost out there."

What followed was a great conversation. John was from down the road and surfed a 'short mal'. Worked in one of the wineries, had the day off, and even though he surfs here a lot, he still gets lost out there...

I opened up, and was rewarded with a great, short conversation. Conversations my old self must have missed out on on many occasions.

My old self was an idiot!