Saturday, October 15, 2011

Time

It takes time to brew a good coffee, to truly develop a friendship, to give up a vice, to become good at something, to learn.

It's easy to seek the quick fix. Expect instant results. Not dedicate enough to get anywhere.

I surfed early this morning. The sea was all over the place, rips running up and down the coast, closeouts, a real sickness to the swell.

I spent time. In the wrong position, paddling through rips, choosing the wring waves.

Time.

It all cleaned up. The swell organized itself. I caught some lovely waves.

I could have so easily left early, disappointed with the average conditions.

But I put in time, and was rewarded.

Got to remember that.

Time...

It gives back.

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