Surrender

I enjoy the challenge of big surf. Things are difficult, you need to deal with your fear. You feel out of your depth (quite literally). At times, you can be having a really bad time. Missing waves, getting cleaned up by a set. Yet you stay positive because you know the reward of snagging a nice one. The reward is worth the beatings, hold downs and fear.

I remember Frank and I paddled out at Rabbits many years ago. Rabbits breaks off a rock base of sorts onto sand. On a good day, 1 in every 3 waves doesn't close out. It breaks on pretty shallow water and packs some punch.

On this particualr day, it looked big but managable from the top of the hill. We perhaps should have waited for the sets to come in, but in our excitement, we paddled straight out. It was as if a switch had been turned on. Suddenly the nastiest, meanest waves came through. I was out of my depth. I was getting thrown around with little regard for my health, I was getting punished.

I paddled in. No catching a smaller wave. I was out of there.

I had reached a point where the knocks were too much, and to keep my love for the waves, and perhaps more importantly, my health, it was time to retreat, to surrender, to fight another day.

I'm in that position with a few things at work now. There is only so long you can remain positive while hitting your head against a brick wall. The poundings have taken their toll. I feel like I have taken 5 steps forward and are now being marched 10 steps back. It is time to surrender.

At Rabbits on that day, a couple of pro surfers paddled out as I was trying to find the safest way to get my arse back to shore. They took to the waves with magnificent grace and skill. Freefalling from the lip and setting themselves up into cavenous barrels. It was inspiring to watch.

On thinking about elements of life where you plan to make a surrender of sorts, it is nice to recognise that others will take your position and, with different skills and abilities, will excell.

Sometimes, it is ok to surrender.