Crack!

Ahh, never get too far ahead of yourself. Lesson learned.

Surfing the local this morning, it was beautiful; just over head high with steaming rights throwing up nice little barrels. I started to get the timing right, and managed to find my way into little caverns. So I'm all that, life is good. Another one swings around, take off and sure enough, find myself covered, fly out and don't think. Look up and the lip just decks me in the head- crack! Like being king hit and then sent underwater.

"Sit down big boy. Don't get ahead of yourself!"

Ocean speaks.