Anticipation

I try to not check out the surf before heading out. You can see my rationale here. An unexpected joy with this technique is the beautiful feeling of anticipation this brings. 

The local wave is found a short walk from the carpark, down a narrow path through the bush. As you get closer to the beach you try to see the crashing waves in your mind’s eye. You wonder whether the sound is louder than yesterday, whether it is of waves breaking further out, or simply a growling shore break.

Then you turn the corner and the vista opens out onto the beach. Te whole walk takes about a minute.

But it’s a great minute.