Good Morning

Will it be or won't it be?
The question always enters your mind as you make your way to the beach for a surf. Will there be waves to enjoy or will I leave, slightly disappointed about putting in the effort and returning home unrewarded.
I remember having to add the thought of how crowded it may be. Not anymore. Not at my 'local'. The most crowded it has been this last year has been when I was surrounded by 25 odd dolphins. 'Ahh, that must have been wonderful', you think. Well, yes it was. But I know enough about dolphins to know they are not all cuteness and light. No, they have a mean streak and I must say, that as a number hang to my left, another few to my right and then some started playing around in front of me I thought I was about to be roughed up by the local dolphin gang.

Of the human variety, my local has peaked at 5 guys in the water, at two different banks. So, no, crowds don't really enter my mind these days. It's more about conditions. This time last year we were blessed with day after day of over head high conditions, with the banks producing some unbelievable waves. This year has been a little bit inconsistent. Still some lovely waves, but spread out between days of flat conditions.

As I parked my bike at the viewing platform I noticed Claude heading out of the water and behind him and beautiful right firing off down the line. It certainly will!

Claude had just had a great surf and was of the opinion it was getting better, but he had some work to do, so left me to it. 'Oh, and the water is like a bath!' This year the water temperature has stayed warmer for longer and as I duck dived my first wave I knew Claude was talking temperature and not wave action.

So there I was, alone with my thoughts and over head high sets racing through. I remember sessions back in Perth where I would be out for an hour and, with the crowds, perhaps get three waves. Here it's ride, flick out, paddle out, paddle for a wave, ride, flick out, paddle out and so on. You actually have to let a few through while you catch your breath. And you can just think, 'Ok, they look like they are starting to barrel, I'm just going to see if I can take off late and get right into the barrel'. And then you practise that for one wave and then another, and another. No worry about being dropped in on, or other guys getting the waves. Man it improves your surfing.

And then it was time to go in. Last wave, a nice one. Ridden to the beach. Back up to the bike and ride home. All with a huge smile on my face.

Good surf.

Good morning.